CANVASES, CARATS AND CURIOSITIES

Diamonds have long been revered as nature’s most exquisite creation, unmatched in their brilliance, durability and allure. Often called the "King of Gems," diamonds hold a timeless fascination that stretches back millennia. They are formed deep within the Earth, where immense heat and pressure transform pure carbon into unique, crystalline structures. These remarkable gemstones, which can be as old as three billion years, survive the violent journey to the Earth’s surface via volcanic eruptions, thanks to their unrivaled hardness.

Throughout history, these beautiful structures have been symbols of power, protection and status. References to diamonds date back to Sanskrit texts around 320 BCE, and ancient Romans traded diamonds from India, captivated by their beauty and mystical qualities. In those early days, diamonds were often uncut, revered even in their raw state. It was not until the 17th century, when Jean-Baptiste Tavernier opened up trade routes between Europe and India, that diamonds became more widely available in the West, sparking a new era of jewelry craftsmanship and innovation. Cut and polished, diamonds took on an even more brilliant appearance and became absolutely essential to the luxury goods market.

Diamonds are now as integral to luxury jewelry as they are to history itself, and their cuts have evolved dramatically over time. Let’s explore the journey of diamond cutting from the antique styles that dominated the Georgian, Victorian and Edwardian eras, to the modern precision of contemporary cuts.

Antique Diamond Cuts

Rose Cut Diamonds (16th to 18th Century)
One of the earliest diamond cuts, the rose cut, became highly popular in the Georgian and Victorian eras. Named for its resemblance to the petals of a rose, this cut featured a flat bottom and a domed top adorned with 12 to 24 facets. Though antique, rose cut diamond rings and other antique diamond rings are rising in popularity across the industry today. While technology has allowed gemologists to reach incredible heights in the field, this resurgence is proof that time-honored tradition never goes out of style.

Cleaving: Skilled artisans split the rough diamond along natural crystalline planes using a sharp tool.
Bruting: The stone was rounded by grinding it against another diamond.
Faceting: The rose cut’s facets were hand-cut, shaped to reflect light in low-lit environments like candlelight, which is why they were especially prized in an era before electric lighting.
Polishing: The final polish was achieved using a scaife (a rotating polishing wheel), ensuring a smooth, glimmering surface. These diamonds have a soft, subtle glow, perfect for the romantic allure of vintage styles.

Old Mine Cut Diamonds (17th to 19th Century)
The old mine cut, another antique style, was especially prevalent during the late 17th and 18th centuries. Known for its distinctive cushion shape, the old mine cut was the precursor to today’s cushion-cut diamond.

Hand-cutting: This cut was manually crafted, resulting in irregular shapes and varying symmetry. The diamonds often featured a high crown and deep pavilion, with a prominent culet (the flat facet at the bottom).
Bruting and Faceting: Old mine cuts typically had 58 facets, designed to capture the glow of candlelight rather than the sharp, brilliant reflection seen in today’s diamonds.
Polishing: These cuts were polished to enhance their natural charm and beauty, though their brilliance was less pronounced compared to modern cuts.

In the 18th and 19th centuries, the old mine cut reigned supreme, glimmering in extravagant jewelry pieces worn by European aristocracy.

Old European Cut Diamonds (19th to Early 20th Century)
The old European cut, a highly coveted diamond style, flourished from the late 19th century through the early 20th century. Often seen as the direct ancestor of today’s modern round brilliant, this cut is characterized by its round shape and vintage allure.

Hand-cutting: Like its predecessors, the old European cut was crafted by hand, often leading to slight imperfections in symmetry. The shape tended to be rounder than the old mine cut, with a higher degree of uniformity.
Bruting and Faceting: Featuring 58 facets, the old European cut aimed to maximize brilliance under candlelight, much like the old mine cut. However, its rounded girdle and larger, more centered culet distinguish it from earlier diamond styles. These diamonds exhibit a softer, more romantic brilliance, creating a gentle glow rather than the intense sparkle of modern cuts.
Polishing: Polishing was done to emphasize the diamond’s depth and beauty, giving the stone a timeless appeal. While its brilliance was subtler than that of today’s cuts, the old European cut captivated with its deep, reflective facets and understated elegance.

Worn by European royalty and aristocrats, the old European cut represented the height of luxury and craftsmanship during its time, gracing rings, necklaces and other fine jewelry pieces.

Modern Diamond Cuts

As technology advanced, so did diamond-cutting techniques. The invention of the diamond saw and the use of lasers, combined with computer-aided design (CAD), transformed the way diamonds are shaped and faceted. Today, diamond cuts are all about maximizing brilliance and fire.

Brilliant Cut
Modern brilliant cut diamonds are the most popular variety, renowned for their exceptional sparkle. With 58 facets precisely arranged to reflect the maximum amount of light, this cut has become the standard for engagement rings and fine jewelry.

3D Mapping: Modern cutters use lasers and 3D mapping technology to scan the rough diamond and plan the cut for optimal brilliance.
Cleaving and Shaping: Lasers or diamond-tipped saws split the rough diamond, and a process called bruting rounds the stone into a smooth, circular shape.
Faceting: Each of the 58 facets is meticulously cut to exact angles, ensuring the diamond achieves its signature sparkle.
Polishing: The final step involves polishing the facets to create a mirror-like surface that reflects light from every angle.

Asscher Cut
Developed in the early 20th century, the Asscher cut is a step-cut diamond known for its Art Deco style. Featuring square facets and deeply cut corners, the Asscher cut creates a mesmerizing “hall of mirrors” effect.

Step-Cutting: Unlike brilliant cuts, step-cuts have parallel facets that emphasize clarity over sparkle. The facets are broad and flat, reflecting light in flashes rather than sparkles.
Symmetry: The Asscher cut requires perfect symmetry, with a visible “X” shape when viewed from the top.
Polishing: The smoothness and alignment of the facets are crucial to the Asscher cut’s elegant, reflective quality.

Radiant Cut
The radiant cut blends the brilliance of the round cut with the shape of an emerald or Asscher cut. This square or rectangular diamond has 70 facets, designed to enhance both sparkle and shape.

Brilliant Faceting: The radiant cut uses triangular and kite-shaped facets to create a radiant, brilliant reflection of light.
Cropped Corners: The cut’s distinctive cropped corners add to its durability, making it ideal for modern jewelry designs.
Polishing: As with other brilliant cuts, polishing is key to maximizing the light reflection across the stone’s many facets.

Enhancements and Modern Techniques

Today, diamond cutting is a highly scientific process, with lasers and high-tech treatments improving clarity and color. For instance, lasers can be used to remove inclusions by creating minute channels within the diamond, which are then filled with acid to dissolve imperfections. Surface cracks can also be filled with a glass-like substance to improve appearance.