CANVASES, CARATS AND CURIOSITIES

Early Travel and the Origins of Packing Solutions

While travel today is as simple as hopping in a car or plane, in the seventeenth century, going on a journey was a long, arduous process. Options for travel were scarce: either by foot or by horse. Walking was the main form of local travel for early modern people who traversed from their countryside homes to the closest market towns. For wealthier patrons of travel, carriage horses offered a faster and more relaxing journey, even with all the jolts and conditions of early roads taken into consideration.

International travel, which required many days spent aboard a ship, was exclusively done by a very small group of wealthier travelers. Merchants, elites, the military—and, in rare cases, explorers—often employed porters or pack animals to haul their belongings, while less wealthy voyagers were restrained to what they could feasibly carry. Nonetheless, early packing solutions reflected a basic need: ensuring that any valuable items arrived safely at their destination.

Trunks for traveling are believed to have become the synonymous storage item sometime in the early medieval period. While similar to homebound chests, trunks were meant to be durable, portable containers. Made of dense, sturdy wood and austerely decorated on the outside, they were designed to act as a solid barrier from the hazards of travel. Travelers could personalize the insides by adding decorative linings. However, they were also bulky and heavy. For those who had to carry their belongings, like explorers or sailors, leather and canvas duffel bags, known as valise or portmanteau in French, were used for their ease of transport.

Antique Travel Trunk

The materials used for packing during this time were practical and easily obtainable. Fragile goods, such as pottery or glassware, were often packed with straw or wool for cushioning. Some wooden trunks incorporated sections and drawers, to store items more securely. More expensive, this feature was especially important for wealthier travelers who needed their valuables, such as documents, jewelry and delicate fabrics, safe on their long journeys. These early compartmentalized designs set the stage for more sophisticated designs in later centuries, where practicality and security were of the utmost importance for luggage.

Beginning in the sixteenth century, young aristocrats in Europe began participating en masse in a phenomenon known as the Grand Tour. Presented in Richard Lassels book Voyage to Italy in 1670 as a vital educational experience, the Grand Tour introduced nobility members to the pinnacles of Western art and culture in Paris, Florence, Venice and Rome. Tourists often spent two to four years traipsing around Europe, studying with tutors along the way and toting collected souvenirs from each destination.

Victorian Travel and the Birth of Modern Luggage

Travelers needed luggage that could withstand fast-paced, more frequent travel. Portability became essential, and luggage had to be lighter yet durable enough for the roughness of train station handling. This sparked a step away from bulky wood in exchange for smaller leather steamer trunks. These pieces were certainly designed for practicality but came to act as status symbols as well.

The Grand Tour custom changed after the advent of steam-powered transportation in the mid-1800s, when taking extended journeys for education, leisurely pleasure or business grew among the upper and middle classes. The journey became cheaper, safer and easier to undertake, resulting in larger numbers of international travelers. Moreover, unlike before, it became fashionable for young women—and a proprietous chaperone—to undergo the Grand Tour education.

Wealthy Victorians often traveled with entire sets of trunks and cases to carry the myriad of items needed to travel suitably. This large assortment would be conveniently packaged away in individual steamer trunk compartments or drawers. In addition, these cases often housed smaller boxes, known as necessaires de voyage, for grooming tools.

Victorian nécessaire de voyage (travel essentials) grew from the French traveling box for grooming supplies that date back to the late 14th century. These boxes, often constructed for wealthy patrons from luxurious materials such as silver, gold, mother of pearl and exotic woods, would carry everything from toiletries and sewing to writing tools and portable minibars.

A lavish English nécessaire de voyage, crafted in London in 1849, is made of coromandel, a wood native to Southeast Asia that was logged to extinction by the 20th century. The incredibly rare wood box, which is unobtainable from modern woodworkers, also features a leather and green velvet-lined interior that protects various toiletry accouterments. Cut crystal containers rest next to gilt-handled manicure tools and ivory-handled brushes, revealing the original owner’s reverence for opulent travel accessories.

These fitted grooming cases were often ingeniously crafted to exactly fit their owners' specific items to prevent travel damage. This English nécessaire de voyage came with a secret compartment, accessed via a secret button in the center lid hinge, that allowed the owner to conceal precious valuables. Bramah locks on the outside ensured utmost security.

Victorian luggage was also designed to protect more delicate items, such as the cut crystal, with the use of soft linings and padding. Velvet ensured items were safeguarded against bumps and jolts. Velvet, a luxurious fabric, also made packing a more luxurious experience by catering to the refined tastes of Victorian travelers who valued style and comfort. Such intricate designs highlight how luggage shifted from merely functional storage to a highly organized, elegant and personalized system.

The interest in opulent luggage from upper-class travelers inspired some entrepreneurs to fill a high-society niche in the market. In 1854, a 32-year-old Louis Vuitton launched his namesake brand and first began making travel boxes. Soon after, Vuitton expanded into the trunk-making business.

In 1858, Louis Vuitton invented the flat-topped trunk, which allowed multiple trunks to stack on top of one another for additional travel practicality compared to rounded predecessors. He took it a step further in 1866 with the release of the “unpickable” tumbler lock that protected against common burglary. From the beginning, Vuitton’s company drew the attention of French aristocrats, including Empress Eugènie who was among his first customers. However, it was not until his son Georges took over the company in 1892 that his father’s moniker became a household name.

Georges Vuitton staged a major luggage exhibition at the 1893 Chicago World’s Fair, only one year after helming the brand, which exposed Louis Vuitton to the American market for the first time. Three years later, the company launched the iconic ‘LV’ monogram leather canvas in an attempt to stymy forgeries of the design. These efforts marked Louis Vuitton’s entrance into the global luxury market and set the gold standard for high-end travel gear that would become synonymous with status during the turn of the 20th century.

The Golden Age of Travel and Packing Innovations

The early 20th century marked the pinnacle of luxurious travel, with wealthy travelers embarking on long journeys by steamship, train and the newly popularized automobile. More Ford Model T and Chryslers than ever before took to the streets during the Golden Age of Motoring in 1920s and 30s America. The mostly unpaved, dusty roads gradually turned into a growing network of paved highways, and the practicality and popularity of road trips grew as a result.

Railroads also developed new programs for travelers on vacation as leisurely time grew. Railway fine dining and sleeper cars, which the American-based Pullman Company excelled in, made long-distance travelers more of a pleasure. During this period, the concept of travel as a glamorous experience took shape, and with it came significant innovations in packing.

By now, Louis Vuitton’s signature monogram had established the brand as a leader in luxury travel goods, and other luxury brands like Goyard, with its hand-painted patterns, seized the opportunity to cater to this affluent market. Specialized luggage that emphasized style, convenience and durability was assembled with new materials and designs that reinforced their association with sophistication and exclusivity.

Luxury travelers, often packed with elaborate wardrobe trunks and compartmentalized travel cases, items that underscored the indulgence of travel during this period. These trunks featured built-in drawers, hanging compartments and shoe cases, essentially acting as portable wardrobes that allowed travelers to carry a full range of clothing and accessories in organized, accessible layouts. The large petticoats, billowing skirts and poofy shoulders of the turn of the century found a safe home inside the high-quality luggage pieces.

To meet modern travel's demands and faster pace, travelers sought cases that could be loaded and unloaded swiftly, and rail companies encouraged designs that minimized bulk. Lightweight materials such as canvas and aluminum began to replace heavier leather and wood, allowing for easier handling and more practical packing solutions. Waterproofed canvas, in particular, offered a durable yet flexible option that appealed to travelers who needed bags that could endure long journeys and unpredictable weather. Aluminum, which was more lightweight, maintained strength and structure, making it ideal for train and automobile travel. These materials represented a turning point in luggage design, bridging the gap between durability and elegance. The Golden Age of Travel saw the establishment of innovations and standards in high-quality luggage design—a legacy that continues to guide the modern travel goods industry today.

Collecting Antique Travel Accoutrements

For collectors today, antique travel pieces hold an undeniable allure, representing a bygone era when travel was just as much about elegance and prestige as it was about the destination. No shoving your backpack into the minuscule space below your feet. Rather, the timeless craftsmanship and character of antique items, whether it’s the patina of a well-traveled trunk, the artistry of hand-stitched leather or the historical significance of the luggage tags from long-forgotten voyages. These prized collectibles serve as windows into the past, with each piece sparking daydreams of its original owners’ adventures throughout history. Many of these antique trunks were stamped with monograms or crests, marking their owners’ identities and serving as tangible symbols of the opulent travel culture that defined the 19th and early 20th centuries.

Heritage houses like Louis Vuitton, Goyard and Hérmes have consistently led the pack for centuries in highly personalized, innovative designs among today's most sought-after luxury luggage brands. From steamer trunks with individual drawers and compartments to custom cases for carrying hats, jewelry or even champagne, these pieces were crafted to ensure that wealthy travelers could be entertained with every possible luxury. Now, they serve as chic examples of decor for the home.

While canvas steamer trunks may not be the preferred form of luggage in the 21st century, antique travel accessories deeply inform modern luggage design. Contemporary brands, particularly luxury brands like Rimowa and Tumi, pay the same attention to craftsmanship, materials and personalization that characterized these vintage pieces. Designers frequently reference classic trunk elements such as leather straps, corner reinforcements and brass hardware to evoke a sense of debonair nostalgia in modern collections.

Recent modern Louis Vuitton heritage-inspired collections have even recreated the aesthetic of their Gilded Age era iconic pieces while adapting them for today’s travel needs. In these ways, antique luggage maintains its charm as collectibles and continues to maintain relevancy as fashionable inspiration for travel accessories, bridging the past and present for both travelers and collectors alike. From functional travel companions to home décor, antique luggage makes a thoughtful and distinctive gift this holiday season, combining practical value with a unique part of history.