L'Aurore boréale by Erté

Erté (Romain de Tirtoff)
1892-1990 | Russian-French

L'Aurore boréale (The Aurora Borealis)

Signed “Erté” (lower right)
Inscribed No. 15 (en verso)
Gouache on paper

In this colorful gouache, Erté draws an enticing and unique fashion design on his model’s elegantly elongated figure. Crowned by an elaborate headdress, the woman wears a daring gauzy caftan that drapes dangerously low, celebrating her nude form. Entitled L'Aurore Boréale" or The Aurora Borealis, this work embodies the Art Deco glamour for which the artist’s designs are so beloved. This ensemble was inspired by Les Fleurs du mal, the famed volume of poems from iconic French writer Charles Baudelaire. As the name suggests, this creative design links the celebrated "fleur" orchids with one of nature's other great marvels, the Aurora Borealis. This refined piece of art radiates the essential luxury and theatricality that could only be accomplished by Erté, oft referred to as the "Father of Art Deco."

First published in 1857, Baudelaire’s Les Fleurs du mal was controversial for its suggestive content and themes of decadence and eroticism. The volume provided a wealth of inspiration for Erté and he drew from several themes to create original fashion sketches and designs. L'Aurore Boréale showcases the breadth of Erté’s creativity and his design expertise. The structural headpiece mimics the curing petals and elongated stamen of an orchid, while the sunburst of colors recalls the kaleidoscopic hues of the northern lights. The design is delicate yet erotic, harkening to the themes of Baudelaire's “Flowers of Evil.” Creative and bold, Erté’s artistic interpretations of Baudelaire’s words showcase his clever imagination and sophisticated point of view.

Russian-French visionary Romain de Tirtoff (1892-1990), popularly known as Erté, began his artistic journey in the culturally rich city of St. Petersburg, where he developed an early fondness for ballet and theatrical performances. He moved to Paris in 1912 to study architecture, and quickly found his creative niche in crafting fantastical costumes for the city’s bustling nightlife. Erté‘s expertise, refined under the guidance of the famed Paul Poiret, captured the attention of Harper’s Bazaar, marking the beginning of a significant partnership that spanned from 1915 to 1936. The artist also designed sets for notable cinematic masterpieces including Ben Hur and La Bohème, and created sets and costumes for cabarets, operas and other performances at the Folies-Bergères, Bal Tabarin, the Théâtre du Bataclan and Le Casino de Paris. Often remembered as the “Father of Art Deco,” Erté was a trailblazer whose colorful creations shaped the groundbreaking Art Deco era more than any other, leaving an indelible mark on the history of art and design. His artworks reside in prestigious museum collections worldwide, including the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, the Victoria & Albert Museum in London and the Los Angeles County Museum of Art. 

Painted 1917

Paper: 10 5/8” high by 7” wide
Frame: 17 1/4” high by 14 1/8” wide by 5/8" deep

Exhibitions:
M.S. Rau, New Orleans, Erté and the Era of Art Deco, October 14, 2023 - January 3, 2024

Provenance:
Private collection, Paris
M.S. Rau, New Orleans