Le zinnia by Erté

Erté (Romain de Tirtoff)
1892-1990 | Russian-French

Le zinnia

Signed “Erté” (lower right)
Inscribed "'Les Fleurs du Couturier' / No. 10.098 / Le Zinnia / Composition originale" (en verso) Gouache on paper

Erté’s design for Le zinnia, created for Les Fleurs du Couturier, blends nature’s boundless beauty with sartorial elegance. In addition to being a proponent of the Art Deco period’s sleek geometry, the artist frequently drew inspiration from the abundance of the natural world, often looking to flora and fauna as muses for his creations. Le zinnia replicates the eponymous flowers on a grand ballgown, with Erté incorporating red, orange and yellow pigments to mimic their natural hues. The ensemble is finished with gloves with floral details, and his model’s hair holds a vivid red zinnia as a final artistic touch.

Fashion underwent a radical transformation in the Art Deco period. The designs of Coco Chanel, Elsa Schiaparelli, and Jean Patou, characterized by their boldness and modernity, redefined feminine style. The couture houses of the Avenue Montaigne and Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré set global trends, making Paris the undisputed capital of fashion. High society flocked to opulent parties and balls, with the city’s elite showcasing the latest haute couture creations. Erté’s sartorial masterpieces found acclaim among many fashionistas and socialites, who often viewed his designs in publications including Harper’s Bazaar.

Russian-French visionary Romain de Tirtoff (1892-1990), popularly known as Erté, began his artistic journey in the culturally rich city of St. Petersburg, where he developed an early fondness for ballet and theatrical performances. He moved to Paris in 1912 to study architecture, and quickly found his creative niche in crafting fantastical costumes for the city’s bustling nightlife. Erté‘s expertise, refined under the guidance of the famed Paul Poiret, captured the attention of Harper’s Bazaar, marking the beginning of a significant partnership that spanned from 1915 to 1936. The artist also designed sets for notable cinematic masterpieces including Ben Hur and La Bohème, and created sets and costumes for cabarets, operas and other performances at the Folies-Bergères, Bal Tabarin, the Théâtre du Bataclan and Le Casino de Paris. Often remembered as the “Father of Art Deco,” Erté was a trailblazer whose colorful creations shaped the groundbreaking Art Deco era more than any other, leaving an indelible mark on the history of art and design. His artworks reside in prestigious museum collections worldwide, including the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, the Victoria & Albert Museum in London and the Los Angeles County Museum of Art. 

Painted 1948

Paper: 14" high x 10" wide
Frame: 21" high x 17" wide x 5/8" deep

Exhibitions:
M.S. Rau, New Orleans, Erté and the Era of Art Deco, October 14, 2023 - January 3, 2024

Provenance:
Private collection, Paris
M.S. Rau, New Orleans