Les poissons by Erté

Erté (Romain de Tirtoff)
1892-1990 | Russian-French

Les poissons
(The Fish)

Signed “Erté”(lower right)
Inscribed "No. 33.1" (en verso)
Gouache on paper

This exquisite gouache on paper presents a cabaret costume named Les poissons (The Fish), epitomizing Erte's whimsical and surreal Art Deco aesthetic. Designed for a performance at the famed Bal Tabarin, the model's bare human torso seamlessly transitions and transforms into a shimmering fishtail. The costume's arms take the form of two prominent silver and orange fish. Completing the ensemble is a charming shell-inspired hat, adding a final touch of aquatic allure.

Paris in the Art Deco era stood at the crossroads of tradition and modernity, establishing itself as a global epicenter of art, literature and intellectual thought. Amidst the echoes of World War I, avant-garde movements like Surrealism and Cubism intermingled with jazz melodies wafting through the city’s smoky salons. As cocktails flowed, intellectuals, writers and artists from around the world found themselves drawn to the cosmopolitan allure of Paris. Erté, with his revolutionary costuming and otherworldly sets, was perfectly poised to unleash his creativity. He worked with many of the the city’s premier entertainment venues, and his striking visuals, full of bold patterns and vibrant colors, came to define the modernity of the era.

Russian-French visionary Romain de Tirtoff (1892-1990), popularly known as Erté, began his artistic journey in the culturally rich city of St. Petersburg, where he developed an early fondness for ballet and theatrical performances. He moved to Paris in 1912 to study architecture, and quickly found his creative niche in crafting fantastical costumes for the city’s bustling nightlife. Erté‘s expertise, refined under the guidance of the famed Paul Poiret, captured the attention of Harper’s Bazaar, marking the beginning of a significant partnership that spanned from 1915 to 1936. The artist also designed sets for notable cinematic masterpieces including Ben Hur and La Bohème, and created sets and costumes for cabarets, operas and other performances at the Folies-Bergères, Bal Tabarin, the Théâtre du Bataclan and Le Casino de Paris. Often remembered as the “Father of Art Deco,” Erté was a trailblazer whose colorful creations shaped the groundbreaking Art Deco era more than any other, leaving an indelible mark on the history of art and design. His artworks reside in prestigious museum collections worldwide, including the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, the Victoria & Albert Museum in London and the Los Angeles County Museum of Art. 

Circa 1940

Paper: 15” high by 10” wide
Frame: 20 3/4” high by 16 5/8” wide by 5/8" deep

Exhibitions:
M.S. Rau, New Orleans, Erté and the Era of Art Deco, October 14, 2023 - January 3, 2024

Provenance:
Private collection of Serge Leeman, Paris
Private collection, Paris
M.S. Rau, New Orleans